Living in an RV or any small home, any sort of chemical vapors linger around and it’s hard to get away from. So being someone who lives in my RV full time, I’m really keen on using safe chemicals and minerals while reducing not only cost
for spendy name brand products but also toxic chemicals and fumes. I’ve also reduced the amount of different items to stock and store in my limited space on board Rhea Rada.
Safe, Potent RV Cleaners
So here are my ride-or-die chemicals and minerals that I completely rely on for the toughest of jobs around the RV and home. Including:
- Stubborn clogged drains
- Holding tank cleaners and flusher outers
- Soap scum, grease stains and general surface cleaners
- Streak-free glass cleaners
- Floor cleaners
RV HOLDING TANKS
I’ve bought a variety of holding tank cleaners that are purportedly supposed to also reduce odor. They don’t seem to work well. They’ll initially smell like a strong gross port-o-potty chemical and then the natural holding tank odor will be back in less than a week. Here is my favorite concoction to dump down my RV tank:
- Washing Soda, Arm & Hammer
- Powdered Water Softener, White King or Rain Drops
- Powdered Laundry Detergent with enzymes, Foca
A couple things to note: If you have a WinCo in your area, you can pick up all these items there. I like Foca compared to a couple other cheap, basic, stripped-down laundry detergents because it includes enzymes in the ingredients. Some of the other cheaper ones do not.
Borax can be used along with the water softener and washing soda or to replace one or both of them. However, the Borax has a lower pH than the White King and washing soda, so it’s not my preference. The higher pH of the initial two have a tougher grease and grime removing power. If anything, I’ll add the Borax in with the other ingredients. Borax will dissolve better in water therefore giving it a better chance to react and bind with the calcium and magnesium particles but it tends to be a little weaker of a water softener than the White King and washing soda.
It’s best to empty the tanks before putting this down and make sure they’re all closed up so this mixture can sit for a while. Dissolve the powders in a bucket and then dump down the hatch. Fill with more hot water and let it sit until it cools, like a few hours. Don’t let this sit for too long, it’s caustic and makes precipitates which may or may not have a tendency to rebind to surfaces. So these need to be washed out once the water cools down. Since I live in my RV, my shower hose reaches out of the shower and over the toilet so I get hot water down the tank that way.
The quantities of each ingredient will vary depending on how often you do this. If you wash more frequently you don’t need to use as much. Or if you have softer water in your area, you don’t need as much water softener. Also, how often you’re driving your RV around will determine needs. Driving the RV around will naturally slosh the tank contents around helping to clean off the sides of the walls. Consider these circumstances and then think in terms of cups. Start out with a cup of each and test what works best for you.
This procedure and these chemicals don’t disinfect. They just flush and clean. If you want to disinfect which is a good idea once or twice a year, then fill the tank with fresh water, pour in some bleach (2 cups max for a big 50 gallon tank), then rinse. Bleach doesn’t need to sit more than a couple minutes, it immediately reacts and it’s not good to leave it in your tank. After you’ve filled your tank with bleach water and dumped it out, then rinse again with only fresh water. NEVER pour bleach in your tanks unless there’s ONLY fresh water in there. Bleach is a chemical that creates toxic vapors when mixed with ammonia. Guess what’s highly concentrated with ammonia that hangs out in your tank…PEE. Don’t ever put bleach in your tank unless it’s with fresh water only and the make sure to rinse so you don’t let the bleach eat away at the seals and gaskets. It only needs a couple minutes to do it’s disinfecting.
Another thing that I’ve bought a lot of is drain uncloggers like Drano and such. Surprisingly, these don’t always seem to work for me. I’ve had some work previously but I can’t recall the brand and I’ve had other that don’t seem to do anything at all! But you know what has really blown my mind and is my go-to for unclogging drains is:
washing soda and water softener!
Also, this combo will clean the metal around and on the inside of your drain and make it super shiny! This combo seriously blows my mind. I will never buy drain cleaner or a metal cleaner again. Pour some on the drain, let it sit for the length of time to heat a kettle of water and then rinse! Scrubbing will help clean the drains surface but I’ve found it’s not always necessary.
Oh and I’ve tried the baking soda and vinegar farse. It doesn’t work. I don’t know how this gets so popular on the internet but it doesn’t work. Unclogging a drain with vinegar and baking soda is like saying, hey the drains clogged lets try putting water down to unclog it. Their pH’s cancel each other out and the cool foaming reaction releases carbon dioxide and all you’re left with is water.
ALL PURPOSE SURFACE CLEANER
I’m really weary of buying surface cleaners because I don’t like to ever have ammonia in my RV, because it’s so toxic and I do store bleach so I’d rather not have ammonia around. I also think that so many surface cleaners available are way overkill on the amount of chemicals and cleaning potency. I’ve used vinegar to clean surfaces and it doesn’t do a good job. It leaves muddy streaks on my epoxy counter top. What’s totally under rated but I find to work incredible is soapy water and a little elbow grease, elbow grease that’s needed for store bought cleaners often as well. So for all my surfaces I use castille soap and distilled water.
It works fabulous and doesn’t leave streaks on my clear, shiny epoxy surfaces that get a lot of grease and grime on them. It works amazing on tough spills and stains too and it’s biodegradable and smells good.
Why distilled water? Tap water and even bottled water has minerals, especially calcium, that build up and leave streaks and mineral deposits. A culprit in clogged drains. So don’t add those into your cleaners. Boiling your water does not make it better, in fact is concentrates the hard minerals.
Side note about boiling water and hard water: I distill all my drinking water. I have a distiller and use it daily. In one chamber it heats the tap water provided creating steam and the steam is distilled into a tube, cooled off and drips out distilled water. So, the initial chamber with the heating element gets a lot of hard water build up. It’s a concentration of the minerals and chemicals present in hard water. This is what that stuff looks like. This is what’s in tap water. I highly recommend deep research into drinking distilled water. Unless I go to a restaurants or friends house, I drink distilled water only and sometimes I even bring my own water when I go out.
If you boil water in a tea kettle you’ll see a white build up in there. That’s hard water, calcium deposits. You can remove that by boiling white distilled vinegar in it, or by using distilled water. So only use distilled water in all your home made cleaners, never boiled water.
It should be noted that this surface cleaner does not disinfect. If you feel the need to disinfect you can use my glass cleaner.
STREAK-FREE GLASS CLEANER
Glass cleaning products often products will come with ammonia. Again, I try to stay away from this chemical. And honestly, I’m again mind blown at how well simple homemade glass cleaner works. I use vinegar and distilled water. That’s it. I like to add in a handful of drops of essential oils to reduce the vinegary smell. Grapefruit is my favorite but any will do. To create me streak-free homemade glass cleaner, I mix one part of vinegar and five parts of distilled water and a dozen drops of essential oil. If you get too much essential oil it it may leave tiny streaks of little dots.
This works great as glass cleaner and also as a disinfecting spray. Compared to bleach, it’s a tiny bit less effective on certain things. It won’t kill all strains of E Coli, or staph infection nor some molds. But otherwise it’s very comparable to bleach in its disinfecting potency. Personally, I don’t feel the need to disinfect my counter surfaces very often. Scrubbing with soapy water can remove a lot of contaminants.
If you want to disinfect cutting boards exposed to raw meats, you should use bleach, not just vinegar.
To clean anything else really difficult like soap scum in the shower or baked on stains, I use the same surface cleaner as above and throw some washing soda on. It’s like using Comet as a powder. It’s super high pH to dig deep into grease and gunk and helps wash away hard mineral deposits. Add in the water softener as well in the shower or toilet to even further tackle hard water stains and built up mineral deposits. The mixture also works great on oily seat belts that are stained from touching skin, stove tops, carpets, shower curtains and more…
- Washing Soda, Arm & Hammer
- My homemade general surface cleaner from above
You might wondering why not put the washing soda into the general surface cleaner? Well, it would make it a stronger cleaner but you’d need to make sure to wipe food exposed surfaces after cleaning and the washing soda isn’t good to get on your hands. So you’d need to wear gloves. The castille soap is fine in both these instances.
I have vinyl flooring in my RV and I could use my homemade general surface cleaner and sometimes do. It works great. But I love using PineSol just for the smell. I’ve got a huge supply of it but when I’m out, I think I’ll just stock my castille soap. It’s one less thing to keep in the RV. Also, it’s not safe use PineSol on surfaces that come into contact with food unless you wipe it after cleaning so the PineSol mixture could never be or replace my general surface cleaner. Plus, I read the company is reducing the amount of pine oil that is used in the product and replacing it with more chemicals. The reason I’m so fond of the product to begin with is the use of pine oil. So that’s another reason to switch over to my simpler homemade general surface cleaner when my PineSol runs out
Here’s a quick list of items to never mix.
- Vinegar and baking soda: OK, this isn’t a dangerous mixture but it’s a waste of time and they basically combine to create water.
- Vinegar and soap or lemon and soap: Soap is usually more alkaline and vinegar and lemon juice are acidic. Therefore they’ll cancel each other’s powers out.
- Vinegar and hydrogen peroxide : You can use one after the other on a surface but combined they’re vapor is irritating to the eyes, skin, throat and lungs.
- Vinegar and bleach or bleach with any weak acid: These can cause toxic chlorine vapors causing chemical burns.
- Bleach and pee: Why? This is basically bleach and ammonia. Which brings us to…
- Bleach and ammonia: Mixing these two causes chloramine and can cause respiratory damage.
- Bleach and rubbing alcohol: The creat chloroform which are damaging to the nervous system, cause chemical burns, nausea and higher levels of the vapor could be fatal.
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